Thursday, August 11, 2016

Ballarat: Death Valley Ghost Town






Article and photography by Natasha Petrosova 


Ballarat is located at the western entrance of Death Valley at the base of Panamint Mountain Range.   Ballarat started in 1897as a supply point for the mines in the canyons of the Panamint Mountain Range. The main mine supporting the town was the Radcliffe in Pleasant Canyon just east of town.  Radcliffe produced 15, 000 tons of gold ore between years of 1898 and 1903.  

Ballarat is named after Australian gold camp   by Australian immigrant and one of the earliest residents, George Riggins.  Ballarat in Australia was a town where the first gold was found in that country  in 1851.  Perhaps settlers of "new" Ballarat in United States, California   thought the name will bring them luck and it really did.  It was here, in Ballarat, CA where the world's largest gold nugget was found, weighing almost   143 pounds.   California -  The Golden State   was truly living up to its nick name.  

A year after the town was established it had almost 500 residents .  Ballarat residents were forced to live in extreme weather conditions with a summer temperature reaching 120 degrees and bitter cold  winters.  At this remote location,  everything that needed for survival had to be brought in from   great distance including water, food,  and timber.  Pioneers then had to preserve the goods for as long as they could.   

The settlement was built from adobe bricks and soon the town had seven saloons, three hotels, a Wells Fargo Station, post office, school, a jail and a morgue.  But it was no a single church  ever built in this town.   It was not that kind of town.  Wild and wooly, the settlement was where the miners went to blow off some steam and relax after a hard day in the mines. With a large population of men, the settlement catered to them, providing a number of "painted ladies” for their enjoyment.


The town was also home to several legendary desert figures including Frank ”Shorty” Harris, "Seldom Seen Slim,” and Wyoming gambler and gunman Michael J. "Jim” Sherlock.


In 1903 Radcliff Mine suspended its operations and the towns start fading into history.  Soon afterward, other mines began to fold as the gold played out.  The post office closed in 1917 and the only remaining residents were a few die-hard prospectors including Shorty Harris, who lived here on and off until his death in 1934.  


In the summer of 1904, Harris partnered with a man named Ernest "Ed" Cross  and on August 9th, they discovered the Bullfrog Mining District.  The way the story is told as two partners were  to head out for a day, Ed was cooking breakfast when one of Shorty's mules took off .  Shorty run chasing after the mule , he stubbed his toe on a rock and fell down.   As he was getting up, he looked around before letting out a yell: "There it is, the strike of the century! Forget the breakfast Eddie, let’s get to a Goldfield  and get this assayed!"  "Incredibly, the ore samples came back to be worth $3,000 per ton and Shorty wasted no time going to the saloon  to celebrate. While Shorty is on a binge for almost a week, Ed was working on lining up a sale for the mining rights. Unfortunately, Shorty would come out on the "short-end" of this great find as while he was "celebrating," he gambled away his share for $1,000 and a mule to a man named J.W. McGaliard. His partner  Cross, however, joined with McGaliard and formed the Original Bullfrog Mine. Later, Ed sold his share for $25,000 and he and his wife bought a big ranch in Escondido, California".  

Shorty continued to prospect for the rest of his life, though he never had a mine he could call his own. After being ill for a while , Shorty  died in 1934 at the age of 78 in his cabin  at Big Pine, California.


Perhaps Ballarat's the most legendary prospector  that touched a lot of Americans hearts was Seldom  Seen Slim.  Can you imagine living in a deserted ghost town in a Mojave desert without water and electricity? Can you imagine living in a place that once was referred as " suburbs of hell"? Who would want to live here ? Well, one man did .  His name was Charles Ferge, aka Seldom Seen Slim.  Slim was a prospector who lived and worked his claims in Ballarat for over 50 years.  

Seldom Seen Slim was not an ordinary man.  He found peace and joy in solitude  in the desert.  He was a prospector who was always seeking the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. I don't know who came up with a name "rainbow chaser"  but that what Slim was. Slim focused on his mining claims.  The comfort afforded by  society  were no interest to him .  He did not care about material wealth.  Slim just needed enough money to maintain his life style as a desert prospector  in order to buy  food, tobacco , gas for his car, water,  and some cloth.  

Slim was about 32 years old when he came  to Ballarat in 1914 before the town became deserted.  Ballarat became Slims home .  He had a whole town to himself.  At one point or another , Slim lived in every abandoned building in Ballarat.  One time there was a fire and it burned some buildings including the one Slim was living in .  Slim decided to roughed it for a while and eventually got himself a trailer to live in. In reply to the common question of whether he got lonely living in the desert, his response was “Me, lonely? Hell no! I‘m half coyote and half wild burro.”

There used to be a water in Ballarat , but the water table had dropped and the water had dried up.  So Slim had to go 30 miles to Trona to bring water back to his camp.  Seldom Seen Slim was living without water or electricity for years. He would tell his visitors that he  bathed twice a year in Trona and that the rain water keeps his skin soft.   Even though Slim enjoyed his solitude  he also loved his visitors.    He acted as unofficial curator of Ballarat telling visitors the stories and showing them around the town.  

One question that everyone would like to know is how Slim made money? No one knows for sure if Slim had money when he arrived to Ballarat.  Slim says that he was an orphan and had no people.  His early years are undocumented .  Slim made some money from what he produced from his mining claims. Mines in the area had produced money for some of the larger operations. What Slim produced from his own claims is unknown. In later years, he made some money selling rock samples to tourists and rock hounds. He even sold photos of himself, as he had become quite the celebrity over the years.

"As the sole resident of a ghost town and a true character of the wild west, Slim became the subject of many articles. Harry Oliver, also a “desert rat,” published a pocket newspaper called Desert Rat Scrap Book. It was published four times a year and it became so popular that he gained international subscribers. Readers enjoyed Oliver‘s colorful descriptions of desert living. Slim was a regular celebrity in the Desert Rat Scrap Book. His infamous sayings and singular lifestyle fascinated readers. Slim was one of the poster boys for all desert rats and old-time prospectors. He represented both freedom and adventure to those who read about him. When tourists and rock hounds met Slim they wanted their photo taken with him. They wrote stories about him and they told stories about him. He captured the attention of everyone who crossed paths with him".

Slim was a simple man who led a very simple life.  he never aimed to be rich and never tried to do anything specific  to be famous.  He just lived the life the way he wanted to.  It was this very act that brought him popularity and fame.   The U.S. Department of the Interior even named a peak in the Panamint Mountains in honor of Slim, calling it Slim‘s Peak.  Slim loved to share his stories and experiences with visitors .  He died from cancer in 1968 at the age of 86.  Seldom Seen Slim was what one may call a living window to the past .  

Seldom Seen Slim, photo courtesy http://www.desertusa.com/desert-people/seldom-seen-slim.html

In the 1960’s,  Neil Cummins bought the private land east of Ballarat.  He was  hoping to create another Palm Springs , a tourist spot . He built a cinder-block store and set up a trailer park with electrical hookups. His attempt to turn Ballarat into a tourist spot failed and in 1988, he finally gave up.  

Today most Ballarat's building returned to earth,  but some are still standing including Ballarat's jail and morgue.  As of July 2009 Ballarat's sole full-time resident is Rocky Novak.   Rocky lives on a site in his generator-powered home and runs a general store to supply the tourists and he is working on repairing water pipes that supply the town for which he is paid by the government.   We met Rocky while visiting Ballarat.  He is very friendly , he loves to show around the town and tell the stories.  Rocky told us  that   every summer a woman named Jun and her son stay in former jail/morgue. It is rented to visitors for $5 a night.  Rocky told us that some  couples spend a night in a jail/morgue on Halloween night and  later tell a funny  story to their friends about spending a night in a mourge.   Are you a couple looking for adventure?  This could be a very spot for you too.  

Ballarat is used today as a meeting point for four-wheel drive expeditions into the area and in winter up to 300 people camp in the grounds of the town.  This is a place to see and visit if you are up for an adventure.   


References:
 Seldom Seen Slim aka Charles Ferge: The Unofficial Curator of Ballarat Ghost Town by Lynn Bremner:http://www.desertusa.com/desert-people/seldom-seen-slim.html

CALIFORNIA LEGENDS Ballarat - Death Valley Ghost Town

: http://www.legendsofamerica.com/ca-ballarat.html

Nevada Legends: Frank "Shorty" Harris Single blanket jackass prospector: http://www.legendsofamerica.com/nv-shortyharris.html











inside the ruins









Ballarat's former jail and morgue and now $5 motel


 Jail and morgue 

 inside the jail and morgue 







Rocky Novak in front of his general store  






Points  a road that leads to Ballarat






Monday, August 8, 2016

Atolia: The Richest Tungsten Mine in the World




Article and photography by Natasha Petrosova

Atolia was the  richest tungsten mine in the world that now stands in ruins.  Despite that , Atolia has a very interesting story.  Atolia is a ghost town in a Mojave desert near Randsburg in San Bernardino County.  You can see Atolia driving down hwy 395.  

Atolia story begins in 1903 when Charles Taylor and Tom McCarty ,  discovered the tungsten deposits and shipped a carload of ore to Germany to be processed.  They made a nice amount of money and in 1906 were bought out by E. B. Degolia and Mr. Atkins. Atkins and Degolia became area mining operators and they put up the first mill here in 1907.   The town's name Atolia derives from a combination of names of its two founders Atkins and Degolia , hence Atolia.  


The Atolia Mining Company produced close to $100,000 worth of ore in 1906, their first year of operation. By 1913, just 7 years later, they had produced $1,000,000 worth of ore. The town’s boom time were the years during  World War I. The Atolia mine had a payroll of $60,000 per month and between the years of 1916 and 1918, nearly $10 million was produced, making it the richest tungsten mine in the world. All of the things a miner could need could be found in the town’s four restaurants, drug store, three general stores, three rooming houses, four pool rooms, two stationary stores, ice cream parlor, garage, three butcher shops, miscellaneous stores and picture show. There was even a new school house for 60 pupils and a newspaper to keep the citizens informed.

Atolia's biggest year was 1916, as the value of tungsten was skyrocketing. Doubling its production again, the Atolia Mining Company produced 108,000 units of ore at $33 a unit for a total of over three and a half million dollars. Atolia's population grew rapidly accounting for over 2000 residents.  


"Eastern manufacturers sent buyers to Atolia to bid on tungsten ore like bushels of wheat or cotton, with prices for small amounts of high grade ore, in at least one instance, reaching $90 a unit. The buyers didn't ask too many questions as to where the tungsten came from, as highgrading was all too common. However, miners were watched as if they were mining South African diamonds; lunch pails were inspected daily, and ore was sealed before shipment by rail. Tungsten had become a precious metal  ".


Water was also very precious commodity in Atolia.  Ironically it was shipped from near by town, Hinkley.  Why is it ironic? ..... well because most of you remember "Erin Brockovich" the movie and a town with a poison water.  That town was Hinkley, almost 100  later after PG&E polluted Hinkley's ground water.  A tank car of water shipped from Hinkley to Atolia cost between $15 and $28.  The water was shipped from Hinkley till  1917, when the Randsburg Water Company pipeline reached Atolia, the mining company was doing it's best to conserve water and even caught rainfall with gutters on every building. 

"People in the Randsburg area made thousands of dollars from tungsten overnight. One S. E. Vermilyea purchased a lease for $2,000 and worried that he'd never recover his initial investment. Three days later he hit high grade ore and refused an offer of $25,000. A canvas bag the size of a shopping bag filled with high grade scheelite float was worth $350. Even children gathered the ore and made big money".

This opportunity was huge but unfortunately,  it did not last.  In 1917 the Atolia Mining Company sold 116,000 units, 8,000 more than it  produced in 1916. Although this was worth more than two million dollars, this represented a loss of one and a half million dollars over what the same amount would have brought in 1916. The price of tungsten had dropped to $18 a unit and Atolia's boom was on a decline.

"Atolia tungsten production for 1918 was $1,525,000 from 61,000 units of ore at $25 a unit, and in 1919, when only 4,000 units were sold at $16 a unit, the Atolia boom was over. The next year the Atolia Mining Company didn't ship a single unit of ore".

With the end of World War I the demand for tungsten diminished , not to mention that tungsten was inexpensively mined and  shipped from China , sounds familiar, isn't it? People started to move away from Atolia, businesses would close and a town began to fade in history.  

Atolia now stands in ruins.  The town does not have any residents.  There is a sing "Private Property"  and it seems according to public records that the site is under  BLM control.  If you want to explore the area , go ahead, no one will stop you.  However , please don't litter, no camp fires and no graffiti , please respect and help to preserve our mining history.  


References:

"Atolia -Randsburg Tungsten Boom":  http://mojavedesert.net/desert-fever/atolia-randsburg.html

"The Mojave Desert"  http://cali49.com/mojave/2013/10/17/atolia-cal





miners cabin 


 inside miners cabin 


 open floor plan



what about that couch? 

 How about that master bedroom 





 mill building 






 Mill Building Interior











What’s left of the very large Joshua Hendy Ball Mill.



 Assay laboratory building office



Exhaust hoods are always good to have when playing with toxic chemicals.








Merry Christmas ! from downtown Atolia !